Archive Retrospective: 2010-2015

In keeping with our mission to support and inspire creativity, we ask the artists we collaborate with to offer insight into their work, a look behind the scenes, and the opportunity for our readers to learn more about the process. For our latest fashion feature, stylist Marley Cohen answers our questions.
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What was the inspiration behind this shoot?
“Archive Retrospective: 2010-2015“ explores a pivotal moment in fashion history when creative directors had the time and space to fully develop and articulate their distinct visions at the houses they helmed. This story delves into the era when industry-defining designers like Phoebe Philo at Céline, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Miuccia Prada at Prada and Miu Miu, and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin were able to leave indelible marks through seasons of consistent and cohesive storytelling. In a time before the rapid turnover of creative directors became the norm, their tenures shaped the visual and cultural language of fashion—setting the tone for a generation of style. Revisiting these collections now feels both nostalgic and urgent, offering a reminder of what can be achieved when designers are given the space to build worlds, rather than simply produce product. “Archive Retrospective: 2010-2015“ captures the lasting resonance of that creative freedom—a sharp contrast to the accelerated pace of change we see today.

What was the first step of putting together the concept and idea for this shoot?
The first step in developing this concept was identifying the time period of fashion that held the greatest influence on me. I worked with Callen Archive, founded by Cal McNeal, who has curated his archive featuring five areas of focus: Miuccia Prada’s Enduring Reign; Golden Age of the
Creative Director; London’s New Age Creatives; Marc Jacobs, Forever; and Emerging Icons of American Fashion. Being able to work with Cal’s collection of historical looks from the early to mid-2010’s helped shape the story as I styled notable looks from this special era to convey this concept.
What is your favorite image from this shoot and why?
Hard to choose! The image that resonates most with me is the Céline Fall 2013 look 23 by Phoebe Philo. Phoebe Philo was able to not only shape a language for how women dress but also redefine modern femininity through thoughtful, understated design, and that sensibility continues to influence fashion today. This image captures that ethos perfectly: the model’s stance, restrained styling, and strong presence that feels effortless.

Who or what are some of the biggest inspirations for your work?
The biggest inspiration behind my work is the exploration of self-identity. Growing up as a twin, I had to develop a strong sense of who I was at a much younger age than most of my peers, as I experienced life as part of a unit rather than as an individual. This constant negotiation between shared identity and personal individuality has shaped both my perspective and my creative practice. That experience continues to shape the way I approach my work, leading me to explore themes of individuality, perception, and the quiet nuances that make each person unique. Through fashion, I aim to create images that celebrate those complexities and encourage reflections on one’s own sense of self.
How do you typically find inspiration for your work?
As a highly visual person, I find inspiration by surrounding myself with imagery. I am constantly collecting vintage magazines, postcards from around the world, archive collection lookbooks, and fashion books. Rather than recreating what I see, I look for recurring sensibilities that resonate with me. My inspiration usually comes from noticing small details, whether that’s color, light, composition, or texture, and imagining how they can be created into a visual narrative.

What are some themes that you are frequently drawn to in your work?
The themes I am most frequently drawn to are self-identity, individuality, and quiet strength. Drawing from my own experiences of balance between shared identity and individuality, I like to use fashion as a way to create a character’s identity to tell a story. I am also drawn to themes of modern femininity, confidence and restraint creating images that can feel visually timeless or very much of the time.
How would you describe the style of your work?
I like the tension between sophistication and playfulness. I like creating work that feels refined while still retaining room for spontaneity and curiosity.

What do you do to overcome a creative block?
A Maryland reset! I am from Maryland, and a lot of my family still lives there. It’s very green and has many horse farms. It’s quite peaceful and beautiful. Whenever I visit, I always have so much space to think, be inspired, and recharge creatively.
Do you have any surprising essentials on set?
My styling kit on set is pretty standard, but I do have a very special pair of black leather vintage gloves that I rarely use but love when I do.
Are there any trends that have caught your attention recently?
I am not usually moved by trends, but the recent recontextualization of the men’s opera scarf being styled on women is my favorite.

Is there anything you’re experimenting with or hoping to explore in your future work?
I grew up figure skating and competing for ten years. I would love to experiment with merging this into my work somehow.
How do you see your work evolving in the coming years?
In the coming years, I see my work continuing to evolve through a deeper exploration of storytelling and expressing the relationship between fashion and the individual. As my work continues to develop, I hope to collaborate with a wider range of creatives and continue refining a visual language that feels both timeless and personal.
What is something you wish you had known when you were starting your career?
I wish I knew that there was no blueprint. I keep finding my own vision and voice getting stronger. I always understand the importance of my own identity and that my career is personal.